The month of May has been busy one for me, with three races in three weeks. I started by racing in Montana, New Mexico, and finishing off at home at the Grand Canyon.
The Prickly Pear Land Trust: Don't Fence Me In 30K, Helena, MT.
May 14th was The Prickly Pear Land Trust: Don't Fence Me In 30K in Helena, MT. I have to say, Montana is great. Good beer, friendly people, and outstanding single track trail racing. The race started in downtown Helena, and then climbed about 1200 feet up a mountain, then rolled its way down into meadows and valleys, up more mountains and ridges, down and then up again, and finally descending down a gnarly, rocky trail back into downtown. I figured I would go out and lead from the start and hope that my winter hill training in the Grand Canyon would pay off, and so that is exactly what I did. Right from the start I led the first climb and every climb after. I got caught a few times by Matt Byrne on some of the downhills, but was able to hold him off. I won by 30 seconds or so. I wore my 'RedShoes', the Flite 195. These shoes are ideal for anything in the western U.S. because out here, the trails are hardpacked and have lots of rocks and these shoes will stick to anything.
Jemez Mountain Half Marathon, Los Aloms, NM.
The next week, I traveled with my wife and three dogs to Los Alamos, NM to race the Jemez Mountain Half Marathon. I was excited about this race because it was at high altitude, in the sunny and dry Southwest which meant it was like 'Playing at Home' for me. Again, I wore the my RedShoes because I knew the race would be on dry, hardpacked, rocky trails. The race basically has one hill and one descent, so I figured I would again play on my climbing strength. I lead from the start, but I noticed that the course was not very well marked. I was never comfortable and was always feeling lost because the orange flags marking the course were far and few between. As I climbed up the mountain, I constantly glanced back hoping to see someone following. As I made the final ascent to the top of the course there was an aid station, but no one telling me wear to go. I started to go left, (which was the wrong way), when I asked, “Which way?” The people at the aid station then answered, “This way! Go right!” Again, I felt even more uncomfortable. As I made my way down the long descent back into town, Bernie Boettcher caught me within a few minutes. I don't know how he caught me that fast because I thought I was hauling down that hill, but he must be a lot crazier than I am. So, I fought him off, by throttling it on any flat section we encountered. Wherever there was technical downhill, he would catch me, but luckily there was enough flat sections for me to keep the lead. As, we made our way back with about a mile and a half to go, we finally began to double back on the beginning of the course. There was some uphill sections, and I was able to put a sizable lead on Bernie. Finally, running through a tunnel with a mile to go, I saw flagging marking the course to go to the right, and up a hill, and so I did. I finished the race doubling back the whole way to the starting line. When I got there, no one was cheering, it was weird...and where was the finish line? Someone finally led me to the finish line. Someone then let me know that I finished the race in the wrong direction. Instead of going to the right after the tunnel, I was supposed to go left. The course was not marked correctly, and I was disqualified from the race. I was pretty frustrated because I worked pretty hard the whole race and got DQ'ed because of faulty course markings. I confronted the race director about the inadequately marked course, and he basically just told me that, “It is the runner's responsibility to know the course.” I guess that also means when the course is marked wrong! Oh well, I will never return to this race.
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Record Attempt
Disclaimer: The Grand Canyon is a Dangerous Place to Run! It is hot at the bottom of the Canyon and many people every single year die from the heat. I want people reading this to know that it is difficult running the Grand Canyon. It is quite possibly the most difficult run anyone will do in there entire life! So please be aware that I prepared all winter and spring for this run. I live at the Grand Canyon, and I had the convenience of being able to run almost every weekend down in the Canyon since January. And even now that I look back on my run last Friday, I was still under prepared for the hot temperatures, and if I do this again it will not be in late May. It's just too hot!!!!
Finally, last Friday, my friend Jason Wolfe and I made our attempt to break the 30 year old record Single Crossing of the Grand Canyon from the North Rim to the South Rim. The record 3 hr 6 min 47 sec was set in 1981 by Allyn Cureton, a local guy from Williams, AZ who is now in his 70's. We had to start early in the morning because it was going to be hot at the bottom of the Canyon. I wore, once again, my trusty RedShoes, Flite 195s. We drove to the North Rim the day before with our good friend, Caleb. Caleb was going to see us off and shuttle our stuff back to the South Rim. Thank you, Caleb!
My plan was to run the steep first 7 mile downhill fast...but not too fast and hopefully cross Cottonwood Campground around 52 min, then run the relatively flat next 7 miles fast...but not too fast, and hopefully get to the river somewhere around 1:40 to 1:45. If I hit the river at this time, I should be able to break the record, even if I had a bad day. I knew the heat was going to get to me, so I ran with a 16 oz water bottle and packed with me two Hammer Gels and a package of Sharkies Fruit Chews to give me a boost when my legs felt weary. Right before we started, I pounded 32 oz of water. I always do this when I run in the Grand Canyon, I always try to have a belly full of water when I go down into the canyon, because It's Hot Down There!
We got started at 6:45 about 15 min behind schedule, but no big deal. As Jason and I descended, the pace felt easy, we talked quite a bit. We were going fast, but not too fast. This section of the trail was absolutely beautiful, lots of green trees and shrubs embedded in the red dirt, with a nice 2000 ft cliff right off the trail. It was great! My legs started to feel tired around 15 minutes down, but no big deal, I expected them to be tired.
We got water for the first time at Roaring Springs. I downed 16 oz and then carried 16 oz with me. I ate some Sharkies. We passed Cottonwood Campground at about 41 min and 50 secs. Perfect! Jason and I were still running together at about 10 min past Cottonwood, my right hamstring began to feel tight. I had to stop and stretch it out. I told Jason to go ahead, and I gave myself 30 seconds to stretch. It worked! Over the next 7 miles, I ran fast, I wanted to catch up with Jason. About 4 or 5 miles later, I caught back up with him. I passed him and continued to push this section fast but not too fast. I ate a Hammer Gel.
I reached Phantom Ranch and downed 32 oz of water and filled up my bottle. About the time I had just finished filling up, Jason arrived. I headed out saying, “See you at the top!” I passed the bridge to Bright Angel Campground, the 14 mile marker, at 1:40 flat. Not bad. Now to the River.
I got to the river at 1:44, still not bad, and still as planned. Now to begin the final 5000 ft climb out. It was pretty freaking hot at the point. The air was still, and I wished there was a breeze. As I climbed, I knew this was the steepest part of the trail. I was going to run until I had to walk, and I when I had to walk, I would only walk for a minute or two but no longer. On a few of the switchbacks, I caught glimpses of Jason who was only a couple of minutes behind. I wonder how he's feeling? I got the Tonto Trail at 2:07, still not too bad, considering that section from the River to Tonto usually takes me about 20 to 21 min. This time it took me 23 min.
At this point I could see a mule train ahead of me in the distance. It took me about 7 min to catch the mule train and I was in luck! They were stopped and letting people pass. I walked by them because you must always walk and not run by the mules in the Grand Canyon. Then I continued on. Now to the switchbacks just below Skeleton Point. I think this is the hardest part of the S. Kaibab Trail, and it is about half way from the River to the Rim. As soon as I crossed the first switchback my legs slowed and I started to walk. I was extremely overheated and almost out of water. What was I going to do. I still had plenty of time, so I knew walking would be OK. I ate my final gel and downed my last bit of water to see if that would help. I when I hit the second switchback, I started running. I ran/walked but mostly ran to the next major marker on the trail and crossed Skeleton Point at 2:27. Still not bad, that section from Tonto to Skeleton took me 20 minutes and it usually takes me 16 minutes on a good day. I still had plenty of time left to get out in under 3:06:47.
This next section from Skeleton Point to Cedar Ridge, I don't really remember too much, except that that it was very hot, and that I walked a lot. Then, every time I walked, I felt dizzy. I must have looked about as bad as I felt because people were starting to ask me if I needed water. Each time one would ask, I would decline, but then a man stopped on the trail handed me his water bottle. It was sealed bottled water and I couldn't even open the freaking top. So he opened it for me. I pounded most of it and then poured the rest on my neck. I hyperventilated from the cold of the water, but it felt so good. I continued on. Feeling a little better I got to Cedar Ridge at 2:45:36. Still I was making great time considering I was feeling so bad, and as a bonus, there was another mule train stopped, and I was able to pass. I had 21 minutes left to go to break the record on a section that usually takes me 17 minutes. I could do it.
I left Cedar Ridge ready for the next steep ascent. Again as I started walk every time I hit steep switchbacks. I ran and walked, running as much as I could. Still feeling dizzy on my walks. I thought I was going to fall over at one point and thought I should sit down. But then I saw my wife, she was like an angel beaming at me. She asked if I wanted water and food. Because all I wanted was water, I only heard her offer the water, and so I said to her “Water!” Since we started 15 min late she thought that I had missed the record and that there was no hurry, so she slowly started to take her water out of her bag. I then said, “Uh, can you please hurry, I'm close!” She then instantly grabbed her water and handed it to me. Mmmm, so cold and so good. I continued on.
I was close and I knew it. I saw two of my friends, Eric and Scott, with 7 minutes left on a section that takes me about 6. They too thought that we had missed the record but then I said, “I have 7 minutes.” When, I passed them Scott followed me up. Every minute I would tell him, “6 minutes.” “5 minutes.” Then we hit the final switchbacks. “I don't think I'm going to do it,” I said to Scott. Then I started to walk. I only walked until the next switchback an then started running. I was going to run until the end. “3 minutes...2 minutes”. There was hope! With one minute left, I hit the last switchback. I could see the finish. Finally, the top! I stopped my watch at the Kiosk...3 hr 6 min 10 sec! “I did it.”
As I sat there, a man approached me. It was Allyn Cureton's brother. He had driven Allyn to the trailhead to see us finish. I invited Allyn a few days earlier and hoped he'd be there. Allyn came up and we introduced each other. He was a very shy and quite man. I told him how long each of his Grand Canyon records stood. That his single crossing record was 30 years old, and that his double-crossing record stood for 25 years before it was broken and that only three people have broken it since then.
Jason finally finished about 7 minutes after I did. He got held up by the two mule trains and said he lost about 6 minutes. If he could have passed them, he might have gotten the record too.
We decided to get pictures of us with Allyn. As we stood there getting our picture taken by our friends, Allyn said to us, “Maybe I'll run this again. It might take me a while to get in shape, but maybe I'll run this again.”
I would like to thank everyone who encouraged and gave their support before and after our run. Thanks, to my wife, Marybeth for hiking down and giving me water and saving my life. Thank you, unknown man, who also gave me water along the trail. Thank you, Caleb, for camping with us, taking pictures, and driving our stuff back, it was a good time. Thank you, Scott, for running the final 7 minutes with me. Thanks, Eric for coming out and running the final minutes with Jason. Thanks, Allyn and family, for being there at the finish. And thank you, Jason, for helping turn this crazy idea into a reality, and I hope you rest well...maybe we'll do this again in the fall...maybe.
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